“Processing” in coffee refers to all the steps undertaken by a producer to transform freshly harvested coffee cherries into carefully dried “parchment” coffee or coffee “pods” that are ready for dry milling and eventual export to roasters around the world. The three most common approaches to coffee processing are: the wet process (coffees processed in this way are also commonly described as “washed” coffees), the honey process, and the dry process (coffees processed in this way are commonly described as “naturals”). While the vast majority of Burundian coffees that Passenger buys are wet processed, the Long Miles team is also a skilled producer of honey and dry processed microlots that offer an intriguing spectrum of flavor profiles while still possessing a clear sense of place in the cup. At the time of writing, we are proud to add two coffees, one honey process and one natural, to the washed selections from Burundi that were already fixtures of Passenger’s menu.

Here is an outline of the Long Miles team’s approach to dry processing at Heza washing station:

1. Handpicked coffee cherries are delivered to the washing station by local farmers.
2. On arrival, the coffee cherries are “floated” in large tanks of water. This is a hugely important step for quality grading. Cherries that sink to the bottom of the tank are kept separate as the highest quality “cherry A”. Cherries that float on the surface tend to be defective or of lesser quality. These are skimmed and kept separate as “cherry B”.
3. Following floating, the coffee is moved to raised beds where the farmers handsort the coffee to remove underripe and overripe cherries.
4. Once handsorting is completed, the farmers carry their carefully screened coffee deliveries to the washing station’s scale. Long Miles staff weigh and record the volume of cherry A and cherry B that has been received from each farmer. For record keeping and transparency, this information is recorded on farmer cards that include the farmer name (and the name of their spouse or partner), the hill where their farm is located, and the grades and amount (in kg’s) of all their deliveries during a particular harvest year. This information is also kept in logbooks at the washing station and the farmer cards serve as the reference point for farmer payment at the end of the harvest.
5. Once the coffee has been sorted, weighed, and accounted for, the cherries are transferred to raised beds where the coffee “pods” are spread out to dry in the full sun (with the fruit left intact). To prevent the development of moldy or unpleasantly fermenty flavors, the team at Heza is laser-focused on keeping the bed of cherries at a relatively thin depth, turning the coffee to ensure even drying, and using portable meters to monitor moisture content and water activity.
6. Due to the fact that Heza washing station is situated at a relatively high elevation (1,960 masl) and often experiences periods of cloud cover and rainy showers (the coffee is covered with tarps when it rains), drying times for naturals can stretch from 30 days to well over two months! While these drying times might give cause for concern in other locations, the Heza team’s careful approach to drying (ensuring a gradual, controlled trajectory to the target moisture content) has resulted in highly impressive and consistent dry processed coffees to date.

It’s no exaggeration to say that this dry processed lot from Mikuba hill, a 2022 harvest selection that we have preserved in the freezer since its arrival, is the most spectacular natural that we have tasted from the Long Miles team in our 7+ years of partnership. The lot is composed of coffee that was delivered by farmers from Mikuba Hill from March 31st through April 12th, 2022. Even by “normal” Heza standards, the drying time for this coffee was extremely long: the coffee cherries delivered on March 31st stayed on the raised drying beds for a full twelve weeks! It is a true testament to the skill and dedication of the team at Heza that this memorable coffee was so beautifully prepared, despite weather conditions that stretched drying so long.